This small Portuguese restaurant has a big heart – and serves fantastic seafoodLisbon Tapas, 6 Church Street, Wrexham LL13 8LS (01978 362264). Small plates £5.75-£9.95, mains £14.95-£26.95, pastel de nata £4.10, wines (litre) from £19.95Sometimes the sheer likability of a place trumps everything. Yes, some of the bread may bear a striking resemblance to the low-GI stuff sold by one of the supermarkets. And you may not be entirely sure what the red pepper hummus is doing on the menu of an ostensibly Portuguese restaurant. But doubts like these can be quietly smothered by something else: not just the good dishes, of which there are a fair few, but also the intangibles; mostly the sense of a place that is genuinely pleased to see you, and wants you to have a nice time. And so to Lisbon Tapas, pressed up against the imposing gates to St Giles’ church in Wrexham. It’s a small restaurant where silent video walking tours of the Portuguese capital play on TV screens, where the sturdy house white comes in chilled carafes at a price that reminds you what eating out used to be like, and where dinner ends with a free shot of one of those ill-advised liqueurs. Continue reading...